Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Well, Time has flown and gotten away from me again.  However I do have a lot to blog about and not much time.  I feel like I should go back in time, but, as time is short I will start in the present and go from there.

As a POS programmer for restaurants I go to many restaurants and unfortunately there are many i would be happy never going to again.  It is amazing how many places that could be at least decent if not good if they would only add a little salt.  The no/low salt  crusade has gotten way out of hand imho.  A little salt, added to an item while cooking can bring out so much from an other wise bland meal that just can't be found by shaking some salt on top.  But I digress, I don't want this to be a glory of salt rant....

Last week, I was at Marais Restaurant in Grosse Pointe and I have to say it was magnificent.  Chef David Gilbert restored my faith in the the restaurant industry.  Not only is the restaurant beautiful, and well stocked as only a fine dining restaurant can be, but the kitchen, which can be seen through a window by the customers, is immaculate.  Every dish that came out was plated lovingly and came out looking like a work of art on a sterling silver tray.

The only thing I ate there was the White Corn Agnolotti which was delicious.  I went home, and found a similar recipe in Thomas Keller's The French Laundry Cookbook which I had to try.  After some minor changes, I made them and everyone, even the four year old loved them.  I made a full dinner, with some braised oxtail and short ribs that I cooked with some sun chokes from our garden and accompanied with a sweet potato bacon agnolotti which was also from Thomas Keller.  Here are the recipes, enjoy!



Pasta Dough
            1 ¾ c Flour
            6 Egg Yolks
            1 Egg
            1 ½ t Olive Oil
            1 T Milk


  1.  Mound flour on counter with a well in the middle
  2. Whisk remaining ingredients together and pour into the well
  3. Stir the eggs with your fingers, allowing the flour to gradually incorporate into the liquid
  4. Continue until all flour is incorporated
  5. Press dough together, it will be flaky
  6. Knead 5 minutes and then let it rest
  7. Let the dough rest while you clean your work surface
  8. Knead an additional 10 minutes until it is silky smooth
  9. Wrap in plastic wrap and let it sit at least 1 hour before using

I actually made the well and slowly incorporated the flour, you don't have too, you can put everything in a food processor and process until a ball is formed, them let it rest for 5 minutes and then knead it by hand an addition 10 minutes or so. 

White corn Agnolotti with Tomato Confit
     Polenta
            ¾ c Vegetable Stock
            ¾ c Water
            ¼ c plus 3 T Corn Meal
      Risotto
            1 c Vegetable Stock
            1 ½ c Water
            ¾ c Arborio Rice
            ½ c Cream Cheese
            8 T Butter
            1 ¼ c Corn Juice – from 7 ears of corn

       Corn Sauce
            2 c Corn Juice – from 12 ears of corn
            4 T Butter
            2/3 c Corn Kernels, blanched
            2 T Tomato Confit, minced
            2 T Chives
            1 t Truffle Oil
       Tomato Confit
            2 c Grape Tomatoes 
            2 T Olive Oil
            1 T Garlic, minced
            Salt and Pepper TT
 

FOR POLENTA

  1. Bring vegetable stock and water to a boil
  2. While whisking liquid, add corn meal and bring to a simmer
  3. Cook slowly for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally
  4. Remove from heat and keep warm
FOR RISOTTO
  1. Bring Stock and water to a boil in a stock pot, reduce to simmer
  2. In a skillet spread rice out in one layer.
  3. Add stock half a cup at a time, stirring to incorporate. 
  4. Pulse risotto in a food processor until the texture of the polenta
FOR FILLING
  1. Combine risotto and polenta and mix well
  2. Stir in cream cheese and butter until thoroughly combined
  3. Place 1 ¼ c corn juice in sauce pan and heat gently to 180º until it thickened
  4. Whisk corn juice into filling, chill filling, you should have about 3 cups
For TOMATO CONFIT
  1. Cut tomatoes in half
  2. Mix with olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper
  3. Cook in 275 degree oven for 2 hours
  4. Set aside and cool
TO FILL AGNOLOTTI
  1. Roll dough through a pasta roller until thin but not translucent
  2. Trim edges so they are straight and pipe ½ inch ribbon of filling leaving ¾ inch edge
  3. Fold over, sealing the edge, seal ends and press down firmly in 1 inch intervals
  4. Cut in the middle of intervals
FOR SAUCE 
  1.   Place corn juice in a pan and heat to 180º, transfer to a blender 
  2. Add Butter and set aside
TO SERVE
  1. Cook agnolotti in boiling water 5 minutes, transfer to owls
  2. Add corn, tomato confit, and chives to sauce
  3. Pour over agnolotti and serve
Yes yes I know there are a lot of steps to this, trust me it is worth it. The tomato Confit can be made ahead of time and frozen. 


 Sweet Potato Agnolotti with Braised Onions and Shallots
     FILLING
            1 ½ # Sweet Potatoes
            8 T Butter
            2 Slices bacon, frozen, cut into ¼ inch dice
            Pinch Allspice
            Pinch Nutmeg
            Salt and Pepper TT
     BRAISED ONIONS AND SHALLOTS
            1/4 c Olive Oil
            8 Shallots, peeled 
            3 Leeks, sliced
            2 Cups Sweet Onion, diced
            1/2 c Red Wine
            Salt and Pepper TT

FOR FILLING
1.      Cut ends from potatoes and rub with 4 T Butter
2.      Wrap in foil and bake at 350º for 1 ½ hours
3.      Remove from oven, peel and push through a ricer into a pan
4.      Cook bacon in a skillet until fat has been rendered, drain bacon on paper towels and add to potatoes.
5.      Stir potatoes over low heat, add allspice and nutmeg and season to taste
6.      Stir in butter to incorporate and chill
TO FILL AGNOLOTTI
1.      Roll dough through a pasta roller until thin but not translucent
2.      Trim edges so they are straight and pipe ½ inch ribbon of filling leaving ¾ inch edge
3.      Fold over, sealing the edge, seal ends and press down firmly in 1 inch intervals
4.     Cut in the middle of intervals
FOR THE BRAISED ONION AND SHALLOTS
    1.   Heat the oil in a heavy skillet
    2.   Sate shallots to brown on the outside, about 5 minutes
    3.   Add leeks and saute 5 minutes
    4.   Add red wine and beef broth, cover and place in 275 degree oven for 2 hours
    5.   Season with salt and pepper and keep warm

Just spoon the onions over the agnolotti, if you want to server it with the Braised Sort Ribs and Oxtails, skip the braised onions above and follow this recipe...

Braised Short Ribs and Oxtail
            1 lb Short Ribs
            1 lb Oxtail
            1/4 c Olive Oil
            8 Shallots, peeled 
            3 Leeks, sliced
            2 Cups Sweet Onion, diced
            1/2 c Red Wine
            1 T Butter
            1 Clove Garlic, minced
            2 T Shallots, finely chopped
            1 T Red Bell Pepper, finely chopped
            1 c Sun Chokes, julienned
            Salt and Pepper TT
            Fresh Sage Leaves

   
    1.     Season Ribs and tail with salt and pepper
    2.     Heat the oil in a heavy skillet

    3.     Sate shallots to brown on the outside, about 5 minutes
    4.     Add leeks and saute 5 minutes
    5.     Add red wine and beef broth, cover and place in 275 degree oven for 3 1/2 to 4 hours
    6.     Let cool slightly and then pick the meat from the bones, removing any fat.
    7.     In a seperate skillet, heat butter
    8.     Saute garlic, shallots and red pepper for 3 minutes
    9.    Add sun chokes and saute 5 minuites
    10.  Add Onions and broth and simmer 15 minutes
    11.  Garnish with fresh sage

  

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Sham Pan 4

Once again time has continued to fly by way to fast.  I can't believe it is April already and the trip that Jennifer and I took to London is already three weeks in the past...

Well despite all I have heard about English Cuisine, I thoroughly enjoyed the food in London.   Of course when we weren't eating homemade food of Stu's or mine, we had gourmet pizza at Gabriel's Wharf, fantastic Italian at El Bordello, and great Indian food at Shampan at the Spinning Wheel in Westersham.

I have never really had much in the way of Indian food, I have dabbled a little bit, using whole spices, not generic curry powders and thought that they were OK, but unless they were spicey I could take them or leave them.  Unfortunately my family isn't in to spicy foods and it just isn't as good if you just add hot sauce later, it is more of an afterthought instead of being cooked in and married to the dish.

Well Shampan changed that for Jennifer, even the items that I though she might think were to spicy for her were so full of other flavors that she enjoyed them.

We started with papadams with chutneys, a spicy lime pickle relish and cucumber raita.  Then on to the appetizers, Scallops with Raw Mango Chutney, Chicken and Cheese Lafaffas, Aloo Chops, and Lamb Chops.  All really good.

For Entrees we had Chicken Madras, Chicken Tikka, Chicken Murgh Achari, and Duck Hash Jhal with Garlic Nan, Sweet Nan, Lamb stuffed Nan, Mushrooms Rice, some Onion Bhaji and Wine of Course a very nice Malbec that paired wonderfully with it.

Afterwords we received some complimentary drinks that extended the night a little bit more.

so as is my habit, once we got home I had to try to duplicate some of the flavors.  So far I have created the Chicken and Cheese Lafaffas which are sort of deep fried Chicken and Spinach Pies and the Aloo Chops, Spiced deep fried battered mashed potatoes.

Please Enjoy!



Chicken and Cheese Laffafa
            2 T Olive Oil
            1 T Mustard Oil
            2 T Fresh Ginger, chopped
            1 t Cumin Seed
            1 t Mustard Seed
            ½ c Onion, finely diced
            ¼ t Cayenne
            1 lb Spinach, frozen and drained  
            1 Bunch Scallions, chopped
            2 T Parsley, chopped
            2 T Cilantro, chopped
            Shredded Chicken
            Salt and freshly ground black pepper
            1 Egg
            ½ lb Mild White Cheese, cut into tablespoon sizes
            1 c Flour for dredging
            2 Eggs beaten with 1 cup of milk
            2 c Fine Breadcrumbs
            Oil for Deep Frying
           
1.      Heat oil in a cast iron skillet, add ginger, cumin and mustard seeds and sauté 3 minutes
2.      Add Onion and sauté 5 minutes until translucent
3.      Remove from heat, stir in cayenne, spinach, scallions, parsley, cilantro and chicken
4.      Season to taste with salt and pepper
5.      Mix in egg and form into patties
6.      Add a Piece of cheese to each patty and dredge in flour, then eggwash and then fine bread crumbs
7.      Deep Fry until golden




Aloo Chop
            1 T Mustard Oil
            ½ t Cumin Seeds
            ½ t Mustard seeds
            3 Potatoes, boiled and mashed
            1 Onion, Chopped
            1 Inch Ginger, grated
            1 Green Chili, chopped
            1 t Cumin Powder
            1 I Coriander
            1 T Cilantro
            1 t Lemon Juice
            3 T Rye Flour
            1 ½ t Rice Flour
            ½ t Ajwain
            ½ t Turmeric
            ½ t Cayenne
            Salt To Taste
            ½ c Water
            Pinch Baking Soda
            2 c Oil for Frying

1.      Heat one tablespoon oil in a non stick pan, add cumin and mustard seeds, let it brown and splutter
2.      Add the onion, ginger and chopped green chili and sauté 5 minutes.
3.      Remove from heat and stir into the mashed potatoes, cumin powder, coriander, cilantro and lemon Juice, set aside.
4.      Prepare the batter mixing together the rye flour, rice flour, ajwain(if you can’t find this don’t worry, use ¼ t caraway or skip it all together), turmeric and cayenne, a pinch of salt, the water and a pinch of baking soda.
5.      Heat the oil for deep frying.
6.      Divide the potato mixture into tablespoon sized balls.
7.      Dip each piece in the batter and deep fry till golden brown.
8.      Serve hot with chutney or raita

 

Monday, March 11, 2013

Smoked Pork Sandwich

Well, between kids in the Little Mermaid, a three year old who is King of the World and has a new favorite phrase "Punch you in the face..." (No more gangster rap for him!), I have been busy this last week.   However I did have time to make a sandwich... a pulled pork sandwich with homemade mustard, relish and BBQ sauce on homemade brioche buns. 

My father in law tells me you can buy all that stuff at the store and make a sandwich in like ten minutes instead of taking all day but I am sure it wouldn't be as good as this was.  So without further ado the recipes!

Sweet and Tangy Mustard
     1 c Mustard Powder, I used Coleman's
     1 c Water
     1 c Sugar
     2 Eggs
  1. Combine mustard powder and water and let sit 1 hour
  2. Stir in sugar and place over a double boiler
  3. In a seperate bowl, whisk eggs and then stir into mustard mixer
  4. Heat mustard to about 175 degrees, stir to heat evenly,  it should thicken up nicely.
  5. Place in desired container and refrigerate, will keep for 2 weeks.
Carolina BBQ Sauce


     ½ c Brown Sugar
     ½ c Worcestershire sauce
     ½ c Mustard
     1 1/3 c Ketchup
     3 T Black Pepper
     1 1/2 T Crushed Red Pepper
     4 c Red Wine Vinegar
     1 c Water
     1 c White Wine
     1 t garlic powder
     ½ c salt

  1. Combine all ingredients in a heavy bottomed saucepan
  2. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer for 30 minutes 
  3. Cook down to desires consistence, this is really a personal call, I have cooked this down to a thicker sauce, but generally I like this one more on the thin side.  The nice thing is if you thicken it too much you can dilute it with a little water.


Cajun Rub(Makes about 1 cup)
             ¼ c Kosher Salt
            2 T Garlic Powder
            2 T Onion Powder
            2 T Dried Thyme
            2 T Dried Oregano
            2 T Paprika
            1 T Fresh Ground Black Pepper
            1 T Ground White Pepper
            2 t Cayenne Pepper

1.      Combine all ingredients and store in an airtight container
2.      This is great as a blackened seasoning for fish or chicken

Smoked Pork Shoulder
     1 6 - 9 lb Pork Shoulder, bone in
     1/2 c Cajun Rub
  1. Rub seasoning all over pork shoulder and let sit 1 hour or overnight
  2. Light smoker and try to regulate it to about 225 to 250 degrees, I have a Coleman dome style smoker that has a bowl about halfway up.  I fill this with ice, or snow so it cools the air as it circulates around it, cold beer also as a nice dimension to the smoke as well.
  3. Add charcoal and wood at about 45 minute intervals, it should take about 5 - 7 hours total cooking time and you want to have a nice cool smoke throughout.
  4. When pork has reached about 180 degrees, it is good for slicing for sandwiches, but if you want pulled pork, cook to an internal temperature of 190
  5. When pork is done, remove it from the smoker and let it sit at least half an hour.  This is a good time to set out the fixins, mustard, BBQ sauce, slaw, pickles, chips, beer....
  6. Slice, or pull and shred with forks, season lighlty with salt and pepper to taste if desired
 Brioche Sandwich Rolls
     1 c Warm Water
     3 T Milk
     2 T Sugar
     2 t Yeast
     3 1/3 c Flour
     2 1/2 t Salt
     3 T Butter
     1 T Olive Oil

  1. Combine water, milk, sugar and yeast and let sit until foamy, 5 - 10 minutes
  2. In a large bowl, combine flour and salt
  3. Mix in butter with a pastry blender, fork, or just your clean hands
  4. Stir in liquids and 1 of the eggs and mix into a dough
  5. Turn out onto a well floured surface and kneed for 5 - 8 minutes
  6. Place in an oiled bowl, turning to coat and let rise until doubled
  7. Punch down the dough and divide into 8 equal pieces
  8. Roll into balls and place on a parchment paper lined baking sheet
  9. Spray with cooking spray and cover with plastic wrap, pressing down slightly
  10. Let rise until doubled
  11. In a small bowl, whisk remaining egg, remove plastic wrap and brush rolls
  12. bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes until golden
Quick Relish
     1 Jar of your favorite pickles or a couple different ones
  1. Drain about 1 cup of pickles total
  2. Chop fine and mix well.
Enjoy, spring is just about here and Summer grilling season is on the way.

Chad